Slab City
ALAN NAFZGER’s Slab City
Pecan Street Press
Lubbock ● Austin ● Fort Worth
Slab City is a work of fiction. Names, characters, businesses, places, events, locales, and incidents are either the products of the author’s imagination or used in a fictitious manner. Any resemblance to actual persons, living or dead, or actual events is purely coincidental.
Amazon edition
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Copyright © 2015 Alan Nafzger
All rights reserved.
ISBN: 9781072086314
SLAB CITY
Written by Alan Nafzger
Copyright 2015
Slab City – FADE IN:
INT. AUTOMOBILE FROM LOS ANGELES – DAY
The sun is rising and a journalist, LISA Esposito (23) from a major newspaper is traveling. Focus on her ID. She is traveling to interview the characters at Slab City “Last Free Place in America”. Lisa’s cell phone chimes.
Slab City
LISA
Hey. I’m sorry I left, you were sleeping still. I got an assignment.
(half beat)
Slab City.
(half beat)
It’s a community of squatters. Out to southeast.
(half beat)
Well technically they aren’t homeless, I understand.
(half beat)
Well, I’m the low reporter on the totem pole, I guess that’s why.
(half beat)
The assignment’s editor.
(half beat)
It’s already hotter than hell. 86º and the sun isn’t up yet.
(half beat)
Interview some people and I’ll see you later in the day.
(half beat)
It shouldn’t take long.
(half beat)
Thanks, I love you too.
(half beat)
Bye.
Slab City
EXT. SLAB CITY, CALIFORNIA – DAY
Slab City
Lisa’s car arrives at precisely the same time a florist van. It is seriously out of place and peeks her curiosity.
Slab City
Lisa follows the florist van around aimlessly. Finally the van stops in the middle of the road. The DELIVERY GUY (21) is looking at a map, or his GPS. Lisa exits her car and walks up to the driver’s door and motions for him to roll down the window.
LISA
Hi, I’m Lisa Esposito, I work for the Los Angeles newspaper. I’m working on a story? Can I ask you some questions?
DELIVERY GUY
Sure, but I have to find this trailer.
LISA
This is really out of sorts, I didn’t expect to see a flower van making deliveries out here.
DELIVERY GUY
A man died.
Slab City
LISA
Okay, can you tell me about it?
DELIVERY GUY
Maybe I’m not supported to say, but someone from Los Angeles has sent out a wreath to put on the door of a trailer. You don’t know where it is do you?
LISA
There aren’t any addresses out here?
DELIVERY GUY
Evidently not. I have a picture.
The delivery guy has only a picture of a couple (arm in arm) in front of a trailer. There are big smiles on the man and woman’s face. They are young and in the prime of their life.
LISA
I don’t know. I just followed you in here.
DELIVERY GUY
Well, the lady, I talked to her, she said it was definitely still out here.
LISA
It’s a bit odd isn’t it?
DELIVERY GUY
What?
LISA
Delivering out here.
DRIVER
Never been out here before. But of course I’m getting paid.
LISA
A big tip?
DELIVERY GUY
Let’s just say she wants it done.
LISA
What are you going to do?
DELIVERY GUY
Drive around until I find it.
LISA
Well, do you mind if I follow you.
DELIVERY GUY
I don’t care.
LISA
You gonna to write a story?
DELIVERY GUY
Might.
LISA
Okay, come on.
Lisa returns to her car.
Lisa follows the flower delivery van to the trailer.
EXT. ULTAN’S TRAILER – DAY
The delivery guy gets out and looks at the trailer and then again at the picture. It’s a match. The delivery guy looks closely at the door. There isn’t a mechanism to hang the wreath, so the delivery guys gets out a screw and electric screw driver.
While this is happening, an African American neighbor approaches. It’s Old Chocolate (63) and he wants to see what is happening.
Old Chocolate
What’s going on?
LISA
Hello, I’m Lisa Esposito, I work for the Los Angeles newspaper. There was a death?
Old Chocolate
Ultan. They took his body to town.
LISA
That’s a unique name. You have a last name?
Old Chocolate
Everyone at the slabs has a street name.
LISA
And no one is called by his or her given name?
Old Chocolate
I wouldn’t tell you his real name even if I knew it. It’s part of the code.
LISA
Code?
Old Chocolate
People are out here because they want to be left alone.
LISA
I see. Of course. That makes sense.
Old Chocolate
His name was “Ultan, the warrior who never smiles”.
LISA
And he lived her? No electricity or water.
Old Chocolate
We got water last week.
LISA
No sewer?
Old Chocolate
It’s all composted.
The delivery guy has finishing hanging the wreath; he waves good-bye.
DELIVERY GUY
Good luck!
LISA
Thanks. Going back to L.A.?
DELIVERY GUY
Two hours back.
LISA
Have a good one.
DELIVERY GUY
I’ll look for your story.
The delivery van leaves.
Old Chocolate
You writing a story about Ultan?
LISA
Thinking about it.
Old Chocolate
A tragedy?
LISA
Well, a human interest story.
(beat)
Wait. Tragedy?
Old Chocolate
You want to see something?
LISA
Sure. Can I use this? I helps me later when I sit down to write.
Lisa has a small digital camera that she turns on.
Slab City
Slab City, also called The Slabs, is an unincorporated, off-the-grid alternative lifestyle community consisting largely of snowbirds in the Salton Trough area of the Sonoran Desert, in Imperial County, California. It took its name from concrete slabs that remained after the World War II Marine Corps Camp Dunlap training camp was torn down. Slab City is known for attracting people who want to live outside mainstream society.
History
Prior to the United States’ official entry into World War II, the United States Marine Corps planned a training ground for field and anti-aircraft artillery units in an area accessible by aircraft taking off from carriers near San Diego.[5] To create the training base, 631.345 acres (255.496 ha) were obtained. The government announced that the base was to be named after Marine Corps Brigadier General Robert Henry Dunlap. After construction of Camp Dunlap was completed, it was commissioned on October 15, 1942. The camp had fully functioning buildings, water, roads, and sewage collections. The base was used for three years during the war.[5] By 1949, military operations at Camp Dunlap had been greatly reduced, but a skeleton crew continued on until the base was dismantled. By 1956, all buildings had been dismantled, but the slabs remained.[5]
The area that is now Slab City was the artillery training range for the Camp.[6] It was first settled by a few veterans who had worked at the Marine base, followed later by drifters – then recreational vehicle owners, searching for free camping spots outside Palm Springs. Current residents refer to themselves as Slabbies while tourists are called Normies.[7]
As of October 6, 1961, a quitclaim deed conveying the land to the State of California was issued by the Department of Defense as it was determined the land was no longer required.[7] The deed did not contain any restrictions, recapture clauses or restoration provisions.[5] All of the former Camp Dunlap buildings had been removed. The remaining slabs were not proposed for removal. Later, legislation required that revenue generated from this property go to the California State Teachers Retirement System.
Slab City’s popularity surged after an article was printed in Trailer Life and RV Magazine around 1984. A 1988 San Diego Reader reports there were no more than 600–700 RVs around 1983, and one resident estimated there were about 2000 trailers when he was interviewed in March, 1988.[4]
Leonard Knight, an early settler who created the Salvation Mountain art installation, was featured in Sean Penn’s Into the Wild, released in 2007.[8] An obituary of Knight stated that he “spent almost 30 years building the colorful mountain … Built out of adobe and donated paint, Knight worked on the mountain all day, every day. He even slept at the mountain’s base in the back of a pick-up truck, with no electricity or running water”.[8]
An article in Smithsonian magazine in October 2018 referred to the community as a “Squatters’ Paradise” which locals consider to be “one of America’s last free places”. The article said of the population: “There are clearly people there who don’t want to be found, so there’s something about disappearing, and the desert offers that kind of opportunity”.[3]
Geography
Slab City is widespread, on roughly 640 acres (1 sq.mi.) of public land.[9] Located near the east shore of the Salton Sea, Slab City is 100 miles (161 km) northeast of San Diego and 169 miles (272 km) southeast of Los Angeles. It is about 50 miles from Mexico.[10] To the east of Slab City is Coachella Canal,[11] which is fenced, but gets cut open especially at Slab City, according to the Coachella Valley Water District.[12]
Climate
The area has a large amount of sunshine year round, due to its stable descending air and high pressure. According to the Köppen climate classification system, Niland has a hot desert climate, BWh on climate maps.[13]
Demographics
The Washington Post reported in 2020 that population is seasonal, and balloons up to about 4,000 during the winter, by some estimates, and dwindles to about 150 in the summer. Since the 1950s, Slab City has drawn a variety of people, such as anarchists, artists, eccentrics, outcasts, retirees, and the impoverished.[2][15] A 1990 Chicago Tribune article, by a journalist who stayed in the camp for a week, estimated that winter residents (at the time) were mostly senior citizens over 60 years old.[16] It is a “popular winter destination for transients.”[9] Slab City is used by recreational vehicle owners, travellers, and squatters from across North America, including Canada.[17][18]
Economy
According to the San Diego Union-Tribune’s Fred Dickey in 2012, the most common source of income among the permanent residents is “probably” SSI checks.[19] In 2020, Ranker indicated that Slab City’s income mainly comes from tourists and donations.[20] In 1995, almost every resident of Slab City collected disability benefits, social security or unemployment. Another steady source of income at the time was selling salvaged goods to visitors.[21]
Many residents use generators or solar panels to generate electricity. Clean water is dispensed from a tank at the community church.[22] The closest body of civilization with proper law enforcement is approximately four miles (6.4 km) southwest of Slab City, in Niland, where residents often went for basic shopping as of 1990.[16] Residents were still obtaining essentials from Niland, a town of about 1,000, 30 years later in 2020.[22]
During the 2020 COVID-19 pandemic, most tourist destinations were closed.[2] This had economic ramifications for Slab City, as well as its availability of food and water, which relied in part on tourist donations. Residents are divided on whether to follow or defy government guidelines, complicated by a lack of health infrastructure and insurance. In May 2020, Imperial County had 55 confirmed cases of the coronavirus, out of 417 tests.[22]
Arts and culture
Tourism
Slab City has a free lending library, an outdoor music venue called The Range and The Salvation Mountain.[2][23]
The settlement also has an internet cafe, a hostel,[24] and a skatepark built inside what remains of the military base swimming pool.[10]
Salvation Mountain – God is Love; 2015 photo
In the 2020 pandemic, most tourist destinations, including Salvation Mountain, The Range, and Slab City’s Library, have been closed.[2]
Salvation Mountain
Main article: Salvation Mountain
Located just east of California State Route 111, the entrance to Slab City is easily recognized by the colorful Salvation Mountain, which is a small hill approximately three stories tall and entirely covered in latex paint, concrete and adobe, and festooned with Bible verses. It was a project built over two decades by Leonard Knight.[25] The work is a 50 ft-tall piece of religious folk art; “an unofficial centrepiece for the community and [cementing] the area’s anarchic creative identity”, according to a 2020 report.[26]
In 2002, Salvation Mountain was named a Congressional National Folk-Art Treasure.[27][28][29]
The current Salvation Mountain is actually the second construction to occupy the site;[30] Knight began the first Salvation Mountain in 1984, using highly unstable construction methods that allowed the mountain to collapse in 1989.[25] Knight was not discouraged; he rebuilt the structure using better materials and engineering, including adobe mixed with straw.[31]
Before his death on February 10, 2014, Knight had been living in a nursing home. He was able to visit Salvation Mountain for the last time in May 2013;[8] the visit was recorded by KPBS (TV).[32]
East Jesus
East Jesus is an experimental, sustainable and habitable art installation located in the Slab City area. There is no religious connotation in the name East Jesus – it is a colloquialism for a place in the middle of nowhere beyond the edge of serviceability. The off-grid facility operates with no municipal utilities.[33]
In early 2007, Charlie Russell left his job in the technology industry, packed all his belongings into a shipping container, and sent it to a trash-strewn field, where he began to surround his two cars with sculptures. Russell, often called Container Charlie, renamed this settlement site East Jesus. He died in May 2011.[34] The Chasterus Foundation, a 501(c)(3) non-profit formed after his death in 2011, has since guided the curation and expansion of East Jesus.[35]
East Jesus features a variety of experimental art, such as live events, performance art, music, photography, and most prominently sculptures. Works are continually added, and degrade quickly in the desert climate, despite the presence of caretakers. One such volunteer referred to it, and Slab City as a whole, as a ‘salvagepunk’ ethos. East Jesus pieces are described as decaying, or growing, but always in a state of transformation, unlike traditional galleries; due both to the intense climate, and the thousands of contributing artists who have added to the installation. In 2014, live-in staff were giving dozens of free tours, and hosted visiting artists and overnight guests.[36]
The Range
The Range is an open-air nightclub complete with stage, lights, amplifiers, and speakers, with tattered couches and old chairs for seating. Every Saturday night at around dusk, locals and visitors meet for a talent show that features permanent resident musicians and anyone else who wants to get on stage and perform. The venue is run by old-time resident William Ammon, known as “Builder Bill”. Ammon’s wife, Robin Ammon, collected old prom dresses for people to wear; these are used when the community puts on a prom, because many residents have never been able to actually attend one.[23]
Government
Dirt roads are graded by Imperial County, and it’s regularly patrolled by the Imperial County Sheriff’s Office, as well as by Border Patrol agents searching for illegal immigrants; Slab City is about 50 miles from Mexico.[18] Fire service for Slab City is provided by the Niland Fire Department. School buses come from nearby communities to pick up the few children there.[18][37]
Community
Slab City is divided into a handful of neighborhoods with different characteristics.[4][7] As of 2020, the community is largely divided into two: East Jesus and Slab City.[28] Thousands of campers and RV owners, many retired, use the site during the winter months. The “snowbirds” stay only for the winter before migrating north in spring, to cooler climates.[16][18] Despite the high temperatures, there are about 150 permanent residents of Slab City. Some of these “Slabbers”, or “Year-Rounders”, derive their living from government programs and have been driven to Slab City by poverty or job loss. Others have voluntarily moved, to learn how to live off the grid, or otherwise be isolated.[3] “Builder Bill” Ammon described “a kind of segregation” between the older residents, who would exchange goods & services, and young residents, who are sometimes “ill-equipped” for self-sufficiency, or turn to petty theft and drug use.[18]
As of a January 2020 report, Slab City is composed of “more than a dozen individual neighborhoods … small camps of people with their own particular rules and culture”. Amenities include The Range, a makeshift library, RV rental units, an internet cafe, and establishments which sell food; though most shopping is done at the town of Niland. One resident is reported to have run a weekly self-help group for women in the community.[38] Residents talked about using CB radio as a bulletin board and adopting radio handles when they spoke to the Chicago Tribune in 1990.[16] In 2005, a resident told Los Angeles Times correspondent for On The Streets documentary how he can just live however he wants.[39]
During the COVID-19 pandemic, residents have been heavily impacted by the loss of tourist income, which also provided food and water. Social distancing is also a difficulty, as many residents work closely to trade and maintain services. The pandemic is complicated by the elderly population, no health infrastructure within Slab City (the nearest hospital is 40 minutes away, in Brawley), a lack of insurance, a lack of running water and sanitation, and anti-governmental or conspiratorial beliefs.[22] Residents raised concerns over a past failure to contain an outbreak of canine parvo.[2] As of April 2020, Imperial County had not provided any specific assistance for vulnerable communities.[22]
Crime
Crystal meth is fairly common and accounts for much of the crime in Slab City.[19] In 2015, the New York Times reported that the usual cause for police response to Slab City is over camping boundary disputes, sometimes burglary, but that methamphetamine use is a recurrent problem.[40] In December 2019, during the two-day Imperial Valley fugitive-seeking effort, Operation Valley Grinch, four fugitives hiding in Slab City were apprehended.[41][42] The locals also cut the fence[11] to unlawfully use Coachella Canal as a swimming spot.[43]
Future plans
The land is owned by the State of California.[7] However, it is also reported that the land was purchased by a building contractor in September 1993.[44][45][46] As of 2021, California had not yet decided to sell the land, but the Lands Commission is considering having the land appraised, and, if needed, allow for cleanup due to military waste from the 1950s.
In 2015, several residents formed the Slab City Community Group in an effort to prevent a sale or to obtain 450 acres of Slab City in a trust, though this was contentious with other residents.[40] A May 2020 article confirmed that the state was hoping to sell the land. “A sale could potentially go to energy companies … Many residents worry that a deal could leave them without a community or place to live, as the lawless Slab City has become the last resort for so many”.[20]